With monsoon rains sweeping across Bengal and appetite for hilsa surging, the state's "ilish" is caught in the crosscurrents of regional politics and international diplomacy. In a culinary twist, Padma hilsa — considered the crown jewel of Bengali cuisine — has vanished from local markets, forcing West Bengal to turn to distant waters in Gujarat and Myanmar to bridge the supply gap.
This year, the silvery delicacy from Bangladesh's Padma River, known for its rich and oily flesh, has been absent, a void that stems from geopolitics. On August 5, 2024, the Sheikh Hasina government in Dhaka collapsed, triggering a wave of diplomatic disruption.
The political turbulence saw Hasina reportedly flee to Delhi and Nobel laureate Muhammad Yunus installed as chief advisor to the interim Bangladesh government. Since then, diplomatic, economic and trade relations between India and Bangladesh have deteriorated, with bilateral trade, including fish exports, bearing the brunt.
In this new scenario, Padma hilsa — a seasonal mainstay in Bengal’s monsoon markets — has failed to cross the border. Faced with this culinary and cultural setback, West Bengal's Fisheries Department has scrambled to maintain hilsa supplies, turning to Gujarat — Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s home state — and the coastal waters of Myanmar.
The Narmada River in Gujarat is playing the role of a source of relief. Fisheries Department officials have confirmed that consignments of hilsa are being flown in from Gujarat, offering a domestic alternative. Alongside, imports from Myanmar, particularly since the early days of the monsoon, have surged to meet market demands.
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“These two regions are helping fill the vacuum left by the Padma hilsa,” said a senior fisheries official, adding, “The quality from both Myanmar and Gujarat is impressive, with most fish weighing over a kilogram, exactly what Kolkata’s markets crave.”
While Bengal’s own rivers haven’t entirely failed to deliver, their bounty falls short. Hilsa is being caught in South 24 Parganas’ Diamond Harbour and Kulpi stretches of the Ganges and in the Rupnarayan River along the Uluberia–Purba Medinipur belt — known locally as the "Kolaghat hilsa." However, officials admit that the local catch, especially from the Bhagirathi, lacks the heft and volume necessary to meet the soaring demand.
“The hilsa from our own rivers tends to be smaller in size. The markets demand bigger fish, which is why we’ve intensified imports from outside Bengal,” an official explained.
Despite a notable rise in prices, driven by transportation costs and the premium attached to larger-sized hilsa, consumer enthusiasm remains undeterred. “Whether it's from the Padma, Narmada or Yangon, Bengalis will never back down from buying good hilsa,” said a fish vendor at Maniktala Market, adding, “This year, the Myanmar hilsa is especially in demand. People are paying more, but they’re getting value.”
Fisheries Minister Biplob Roychowdhury assured that the government is proactively working to ensure that the cultural significance of hilsa, a monsoon staple deeply woven into Bengali identity, is not lost.
“We’re monitoring availability and ensuring that wherever hilsa is caught — be it within the state, across the country or abroad — it reaches our people at a reasonable price,” Roychowdhury said, adding, “The goal is simple: to protect both the supply and the sentiment that surrounds hilsa.”
Sources in the Fisheries Department confirmed that shipments from Myanmar and Gujarat are arriving almost daily, keeping market supplies steady despite the Padma disruption.
While Padma hilsa remains conspicuously absent from Bengal’s plates this monsoon, a potential culinary crisis has been averted— thanks to rapid sourcing efforts, diplomatic manoeuvring, and an unwavering commitment to uphold a deeply cherished tradition. Whether from Gujarat’s Narmada or the waters of Myanmar, the hilsa may have changed rivers, but its place on the Bengali table remains unshaken.
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